"Etats Généraux de Bruxelles"
sounds grander than "Citizens' Forum of Brussels," but that is what has
been going on over the past several weeks, culminating in an
end-of-March final plenary session. I attended one of the conferences
last night, "Brussels as an International City," with a Power Point
summary of the brussels-international-city (.pdf) study done by a team of "cultural geographers" from Brussels' main universities, ULB and VUB.
A city of a little over one million that houses institutions like
the European Union and NATO, and almost a third of its inhabitants from
other countries - that qualifies as international, so that's that,
right?
Actually, no. Part of the problem is that Brussels - whose name
recognition rivals that of Coca Cola, and beats by far the other
constituent regions of Belgium (what foreigner, outside of a select
few, has ever heard of "Wallonia" or "Flanders?") and of
Brand Belgium itself - is synonymous with "bureaucracy." The European
Union is at once one of Brussels' major sources of income, and the bane
of its efforts to improve its brand or, as was used last night, its
"city image."
People pay good money to visit Brussels, whether on business or on
holiday. The more than 5 million overnight stays per annum account for
some 30,000 jobs. And yet Brussels struggles with its self-image.
European institutions - ably represented at the conference by several articulate "Eurocrats"
(though the often pejorative use of the name shows the challenges
facing the image folks) - are only now, more than 50 years into their
prolonged "temporary" stay in the Belgian capital, coming to grips with
how best to fit into the city that houses them.
Brussels, before it became the de facto capital of Europe, was and
remains the capital of Belgium. Oh yes, that's yet another image
problem. Brussels, officially bilingual French-Dutch, probably has many
more anglophones than Dutch-speakers in its midst, and perhaps many
more Arabophones than English and Dutch speakers put together.
Cacophony to some, opportunity to others: The Brussels Enterprise
Agency (BEA) tries to put the city's assets into context for foreign investors, as does Brussels Export (image above left).
Geographically surrounded by Dutch-speaking Flanders, Brussels'
periphery is Ground Zero in the Belgian language wars, which are really
political wars masquerading as linguistic ones. The natural region of
Brussels - were it not for the political boundaries that are limited to
19 "communes" in the urban center - would in other metropolitan areas
stretch to include its economic hinterland. Some, like writer Marco Martiniello, quoted in yesterday's Le Monde, have even likened Brussels' unenviable political situation to the French acronym for UFO - OVNI - "objet politique non identifié."
So, Brussels has
politics (Belgian and European), language (Belgium's own, plus those of
polyglot newcomers), and geography to contend with. A tall order for
any city, but an immense challenge given the current morose economic
context.
Luckily, the very convening of the "Etats Généraux"
and the efforts of BEA and other home town boosters provides cause for
hope. After a stint at NATO in the '90s, we decided to return to
Brussels and make it our permanent home. There's truly no place more
international - comforting for lifelong nomadic expats like us. That
feeling of allegiance by Belgians and expats alike was evident last
night, though several speakers pointed out that the "Méditerranéens"
who constitute a large chunk of central-western Brussels inhabitants
were largely absent from the Forum. At least the lacunae was noticed.
Far
from taking its orphan political status lying down, citizens (and
hangers-on like us) of Brussels are starting to look closely at their
fate. There's even a new political party in the making, "ProBruxsel,"
which nicely misspells its very name to show bilingual (even
trilingual) inclusiveness between French, Dutch, and English-speaking
inhabitants. A similarly trilingual forum, Brussels Studies, has ambitions to be a "scientific" (meaning academic) meeting place for serious work on the idea of Brussels.
Brussels has started to identify its brand.
(A version of this post first appeared in "Errant European" on Blogactiv.eu)